http://www.bonazziwine.it/
Last of the Valpolicella tour we have the Azienda Agricola Dario e Fabio Bonazzi, one we've been to several times already and probably will be again before long. The small estate run by the cordial Fabio Bonazzi is located just outside the center of San Pietro in Cariano, but the tasting room and sales point is directly in the heart of town. The vineyards are mostly outside of town and nearer to Fumane, particularly the Monte Gradela site.
(the tasting room)Generally speaking, Bonazzi excels in having an unusually broad range of wines with something for every palate, many of these experiments with less typical grape varieties. There is a certain style running through his whole oeuvre: smooth and upfront fruit, balanced and uncomplicated. It certainly helps that most of the wines are released upon perfect drinking age, but perhaps the biggest reason why we and others keep coming back are the fair prices. No matter what you think of the wines, prices that are in some cases (like the Ripasso) about half that of other producers are just a strong argument in quality-price-ratio. Since the quality is also good and at least on par with many others we've tasted, it's probable that this estaste simply has not been discovered by enough people yet. Maybe I should not be writing this?
Seriously though, the Valpolicella Classico 2007 offers vibrant, fresh cherries and flowers for a nice quaffing wine at a price where it can be used as cooking wine. The wine's juicy fruit without any greenness is indicative of the producer's style.
The Ripasso 2004, which has enjoyed some barrel ageing, scores with dark cherries and bramble fruit jam backed up by brandy or rum notes and a smooth but firm body.
(the winemaker, Fabio Bonazzi)Quite popular with many drinkers: the Rosso Veronese IGT San Nicola 2004, where the Valpolicella varieties are joined by some Sangiovese, all of them dried. The wine is aged in French and Hungarian oak, and it shows: modern, oaky, lots of vanilla and spice, and thick, sweet dark red fruits. This effort is closer to an Amarone than to a Ripasso.
The counterpoint to it is the IGT Antares 2001 from 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Oselata. Made from dried grapes and in used oak with "ancient methods", it has thick dark cherries and obvious notes from drying and subtle oxidation (sherry, raisins, nuts) over a heavy but well-aged body.
Well worth a mention the white Passito Sofia from mainly Garganega and Malvasia and aged in cherrywood barrels to impart honey notes (as opposed to vanilla notes from oak). Delicious baked apples and wildflower honey persist on nose and palate, but a lively acidity keeps the sweetness in check.
(vineyards near the winery)The IGT El Dario, dedicated to the winemaker's father, is made as a top notch Amarone would be but with a different varietal makeup: careful selection of the dried grapes, long fermentation and no filtration. With the dark fruit and apassimento notes joined by tertiary aromas of dried rose petals, tobacco and earthy spices and an opulent but refined body, it's definitely the estate's premium product.
(Trentino bower vines next to the winery)More than just honorable mentions round up the field: the Recioto, a pleasant typical example, with the 1997 wine showing how well this dessert wine can age and what complexity it can achieve. Similarly profiting from its age is the Amarone Ca Volpare 2000.
In any event, I can only recommend tasting these for yourself with some nice plates of salami, cheeses and antipasti, such as you will be served at a tasting with Signore Bonazzi.
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