http://www.antolinivini.it/
Located pretty much in the heart of the region, in Marano, this farm is owned by the energetic young brothers Pier Paolo and Stefano Antolini. They have only been making their own wines since 2003 (on a very small scale since 2000), but have already received some considerable acknowledgements in that short time, such as an outstanding 92 points Wine Enthusiast.
(vines between winery and residential houses)A small producer, the winery seems typically Italian with the family houses next to the winery itself and all surrounded by vines (not the best plots, of course, as those are on the hills outside of town). The personal touch not only shows through in the scale of the winery, which is small but modern, but especially in the immediately friendly nature of the winemaker, Pier Paolo (who speaks good English). After a tour of the property, one cannot help but be affected by the man's enthusiasm for his work. Fortunately, it shows through in the azienda's wines.
(Pier Paolo Antolini)The line of wines with their simply elegant coherent designs (the producer is acquiring a nice corporate identity, if you will) kicks of with the Valpolicella Classico.
It ranges from a good table wine, green and spicy with good acidity in less than great years like 2006 to an almost-more-than-a-table-wine - rich and flowery, with ripe cherries and fine spices - in good years like 2005 and 2007. The wine's richer but still elegant nature compared to most Classicos is due at least in part to a longer period in stainless steel tanks: it is bottled in the summer after the harvest, almost a year later. Personally, from the several I've had, I've found this to be my favorite Valpolicella Classico.
Ripassos generally seem to go one way or the other: either lighter and elegant, just a step above a Classico in concentration and alcohol, or dark and deep, closer to an Amarone than to a Classico. The Antolini Ripasso goes the latter route, and is the better for it: rich dark cherries, chocolate, spices and dried notes persist in the nose and on the finely balanced palate. Part of the wine spends 12 months in 2-3 year old oak of various provenances after the second fermentation on the lees already used for Recioto.
(part of the barrique cellar with the cherrywood cask in front)These barrels from Hungarian, American and French oak are also used for the two year refinement of the Amarone, with one interesting peculiarity for good measure: a single cherrywood barrel for extra complexity. The single vineyard Amarone Moròpio is a classic example of this type of wine, from dark cherries to raisins, fine oak notes and spices to the dry and heavy finish. Another vineyard, Ca Coato is also used for an Amarone whose first vintage, 2006, is scheduled to be released in 2009.
Also from the 2006 vintage but already released in 2008 is the winery's experiment with Cabernet grapes. The wine called Theobroma, 'drink of the gods', is made from dried Cabernet Sauvignon, Croatina, Corvina and Rondinella. As it turns out, the French variety is actually easier to dry than the Valpolicella classics because of its small berries. This wine also spends one year in oak, elevating it into the same league as an Amarone in all but legal name. Although it is still a young wine with a long way to go, I am sure any doubts the Antolinis may have had about their experiment will soon be vanished by this offering's quality. The essentials are all here - the raisins, the chocolate, the spices, the cherries - but also a dark, foresty quality that probably comes from the ripe and dried Cabernet and promises an outstanding wine after some cellaring.
(the drying loft is fully occupied in November)Finally we have the Recioto, which manages to impress with a great balance between the aromatic depth of cherries, some cassis and spices (cloves, cinnamon) and sweet richness. Its complexity, spiciness and comparatively moderate sugar level may be reasons enough to pick up a bottle even for those like me who are not crazy about dessert wines.
(the drying loft above the winery, open on nice days)Well, that's whole lot of words for a great producer that could be summed up more succinctly by one simple fact: on their homepage, you have not only their cell phone number, but even an invitation and detailed explanation to take a hike to one of their vineyards and see it for yourself. Who could refuse?
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